surfing :: essays research papers

Surfing is the sport of riding a surfboard toward the shore on the crest of a wave. It is an amazing sport to learn and it gives the rider a hell of an adrenaline rush!! There are three major phases of surfing – paddling, push up and the standing position. This report will give you a full understanding of the correct techniques to use while surfing and it also describes the basic structure and function of the muscular-skeletal and cardio-respiratory systems of the human body. It will also describe the many different energy systems and how they change when surfing. Getting Started Before catching the massive waves it’s a good idea to practise getting used to surfing on the white wash. The white wash is where the waves break and it is the easiest wave to catch. Strap your leg rope (or leash) to your ankle, and hold the slack so you don’t trip as you enter the water. The first phase in surfing is paddling. To start off you will need to learn how to successfully catch a wave. It’s a good idea to watch other surfers get into the water, and observe the route they use to paddle out. To paddle, you first lie on your surfboard – to do this body weight needs to be positioned along the centre of the board. Your feet need to be raised slightly off the end of the board. Your body needs to be far enough back to keep the nose of the board about a couple of inches out of the water. If you are too far forward on the board you will notice that the nose of the board keeps dipping underwater making it very difficult to paddle. It will take time to find the most comfortable position. Try to be balanced on the board and paddle at almost the speed of the incoming wave. Raise your head when you paddle with arms bent at the elbow approximately ninety degrees. Reach out with one arm at a time, cupping your hands to make a scoop, stroking your way through the water. You don’t have to dig your arms too deep. Keep the movement of your arms nice and smooth, pulling the board through the water and finish your paddle by flicking your wrist as your arms moves past your hip. Pictures (Above and right): The position of different surfers while paddling